
Time to give the board a go. Armed with the knowledge that you use supermarket bags to slip the wetsuit over the feet... I grabbed the board and walked through the cold town side of the sandhills and then paused at the top of the hill, basking in the sun and feeling the temperature much warmer than the valley below.
I felt that exquisite anticipation I first had as a 13 year-old with my 7' Quane board, what will it ride like? Will I be able to get up? The new suit was so toasty, but the feeling in my feet disappeared straight away in a calf-cramping spasm. There was still snow on the shady parts of the Port Hills and yesterday's norwester had sent a shot of glacial water from the Waimakariri right down Pegasus Bay. I paddled out and the board glided easily underneath me. After the first channel a nice wee wave bounced up and started to reform right behind me. I turned and paddled and managed to get straight up, riding a clean wee face. It felt as though I had been riding this board all my life, it responded beautifully. With a whoop I flicked off and paddled back out. With no legrope and a new board I decided to be prudent and stay between the first and second channels and I had a ball, the board will catch the little sloppy ones and goes like a cut cat in the clean stuff. I felt as big a thrill as I had all those years ago. A bucket of water over my head, hung the wetsuit up on the line and lay out in the sun with the steam rising from my skin... Bliss.

Memo to moi - get a leggie and some booties ASAP. I sent a text to Andy and Ric, who understand this thrill... As Andy replied - "Ah a new stick. Always a great day"
No comments:
Post a Comment